Russian River
By Andrew Collins

Nestled in the redwood-shaded western reaches of Sonoma County, the Russian River Valley is one of Northern California's most relaxing and gay-friendly weekend getaways. Although the area is occasionally ravaged by wintertime floods, it offers cool and typically sunny weather much of the year, especially in summer. The area comprises the towns of Guerneville, Forestville, Monte Rio, and - where the river empties into the Pacific - Jenner. Gay folks have been weekending here for more than three decades, and the area has always been a terrific spot for camping, canoeing, hiking, and simply relaxing amid peaceful and picturesque surroundings. More recently, the eastern reaches of the area have blossomed into a hub of superb wineries.

Although a steady influx of well-heeled San Francisco professionals has given the Russian River a slightly more polished sensibility in recent years, Guerneville and its neighboring communities still look and feel unpretentious - even a bit raffish - compared with such swanky Wine Country towns as Healdsburg and Rutherford. This is a spot where flannel shirts and jeans are as much in vogue as designer wear. Life here moves at a snail's pace, and that's how most locals prefer it.

The river defines not only the community's personality but also the region's geography. It's a threat, to be sure, but it's also the reason devotees love the area. Perhaps the leading activities in summer are floating for several miles down the river on inner tubes and embarking on one of the popular canoe expeditions offered by Burke's Canoes. For a spectacular hike, drive a few miles north of town to 800-acre Armstrong Woods, home to some of the tallest and oldest trees in northern California.

If you're hit with a rainy day, fear not: Downtown Guerneville holds an increasingly intriguing selection of shops. Possibilities include the Five & Dime, with its old-fashioned candy section and offbeat gifts; Stone's River Feed, a whimsically stocked pet-supplies store; River Reader, a quirky bookshop with a GLBT section; and Kings & Queens, which stocks cool vintage threads. At Hemp & Chocolat, you can pick up - you guessed it - hemp clothing and accessories, along with gorgeous handmade chocolates. And Wayne Skala Jewelry & Antiques carries some of the most intriguing decorative items and household gifts around.

Wine-tasting is a top pastime in these parts, and a great way to begin your explorations is by consulting with David DeVries and John Haggard, two knowledgeable and friendly experts on local wine who operate Sophie's Cellars, a wonderful little wine and cheese shop in Monte Rio. These guys can recommend and make introductions for you at several high-quality, lesser-known vineyards, some that aren't otherwise open to the public.
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